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World
renowned for its population of tigers, Kanha National Park provides excellent
opportunities for observing these magnificent animals in the wild on jeep drives
and elephant backs. While this lushly forested country is immediately familiar
to readers of Rudyard Kipling, it has also recently been the site of extensive
research on the ecology of tiger, deer, langoor, Barasingha deer, guar and wild
dogs.
DAY
2: Delhi - Ranthambhore: By Train 400 km in 6 hr
Palas
or Cheela or the Flame of the Forest (Butea monosperms) blooms magnificently
around mid-April. During the period, Kachida and Anatpura provide an amazing
view, like a forest on fire. Around Kamaldhar massive Gum trees (Sterculia urens)
with smooth white trunk stand out conspicuously. Similarly, Gurjan (Lannea coromandelica)
with greyish trunks at the banks of the lakes and soft wood Salar (Boswellia
serrata) dotted atop hills are noticeable.
The
other kinds of cats found in Ranthambhore are Leopard (Panthera pardus), Caracal
(Felis caracal), Leopard Cat (Felis bengalensis), Fishing Cat (Felis viverrina)
and the Jungle Cat (Felis chaus). Besides the big cats, the other large predators
found in Ranthambhore include Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Wolf, Wild dog (or
Dhole), Jackal, Indian Fox, Palm Civet, Small Indian Civet, Common Indian Mongoose,
Small Indian Mongoose, Ratel (or Honey Badger), Marsh Crocodile and the Indian
Python. There are two species of Antlers, namely the Spotted Deer (or Chital)
and the Sambhar Deer, and, two kinds of Antelopes, namely the Indian Gazelle
(or Chinkara) and the Bluebull (or Neelgai). Black Buck (another kind of antelope),
which is rarely found in the National Park is common in Devpura area, in the
outskirts of the park.
Commonly
referred to as Bharatpur, the Park is a delight for bird watchers. Over 375
species of birds are found here and raised paths, camouflaged by babul trees
and undergrowth make viewing easy. A quiet ride by boat in the early hours of
the morning is also unforgettable experience. The cacophony is unbelievable
as painted storks, open bills, spoonbills, egrets, cormorants, white ibis and
multitudes of others, tend their young. Jacanas with their iridescent colors
and elegant tail feathers and purple moorhen can be seen delicately treading
over the floating vegetation.
Attracted
by the influx of the waterfowl the predatory birds-tawny eagles, spotted eagles
short-toed eagles imperial eagles and fishing eagle also arrive. They all form
the apex of the biological pyramid of the sanctuary and complete the avian food
chain of the ecosystem. There are large herds of the nilgai, chital, wild boar
and fear cows in addition to a few herds of sambar.
DAY
6: Agra - Umaria (Bandhavgarh): By Overnight train
Bandhavgarh
is a new National Park with a very long history. Set among the Vindhya hills
of Madhya Pradesh with an area of 168sq miles (437sq km) it contains a wide
variety of habitats and a high density of game, including a large number of
Tigers. This is also the White tiger country. These have been found in the old
state of Rewa for Many years. Maharaja Martand Singh captured the last known
in 1951. This white Tiger, Mohun is now stuffed and on display in the Palace
of Maharaja of Rewa. Prior to becoming a National Park, the forests around Bandhavgarh
had long been maintained as a Shikargah, or game preserve of the Maharaja of
Rewa. The Maharaja and his guests carried out hunting - otherwise the wildlife
was well protected. It was considered a good omen for Maharaja of Rewa to shoot
109 tigers. His Highness Maharaja Venkat Raman Singh shot 111 Tigers by 1914.
The
oldest sign of habitation in the park are caves dug into the sandstone to the
north of the fort. Several contain Brahmi inscriptions dating from the 1st century
BC. Various dynasties have ruled the fort, for example, the Maghas from the
1st century AD, the Vakatakas from the 3rd century AD, From that time onwards
Bandhavgarh was ruled by a succession of dynasties including the Chandela Kings
of Bundelkhand who built the famous temples at Khajuraho. The Baghel Kings,
the direct ancestors of the present Royal family of Rewa, established their
dynasty at Bandhavgarh in the 12th century. It remained their capital till 1617
when the center of court life moved to Rewa, 75 miles (120Kms) to the north.
Without royal patronage Bandhavgarh became more and more deserted until forest
overran the area and it became the royal hunting reserve. This helped to preserve
the forest and its wildlife, although the Maharajas made full use of their rights.
Each set out to kill the auspicious number of 109 Tigers.
Patient
watching should reward the visitor, with a sight of Indian Fox, Sloth bear,
Striped hyena, Jungle cut, Leopard, Mouse Deer, Chausingha or four horned antelope,
Nilgai, Ratel and Porcupine Kanha has some 200 species of birds. Watchers should
station themselves in the hills, where the mixed and bamboo forests harbour
many species and in the grassy forest clearings. Water birds can be seen near
the park's many rivulets and at Sarvantal, a pool that is frequented by water
birds and the area in front of the museum.
DAY
10: Kanha